While the economic situation in much of the West Bank has improved over the last couple years, this progress has largely missed many of the West Bank’s refugee camps.

Askar Refugee Camp was established in the Palestinian city of Nablus in 1950 by the United Nations Relief and Works Agency (UNRWA). It was designed to house some of the 700,000+ people displaced or expelled during the creation of the state of Israel in 1948. The camp, however, was expanded by its residents in 1965 due to overcrowding. The expansion became known as New Askar Refugee Camp but was not officially recognized by UNRWA.

According to UNRWA, as of 2007, the poverty rate in Askar hovers between 40 and 50 percent while close to 30 percent experience “extreme” poverty.

The original residents of Askar Refugee Camp were expelled from areas such as Jaffa and Haifa in, what is now, Israel. Many camp residents still hold the keys and deeds to their pre-1948 homes hoping that they will be able to return one day.

New Askar Refugee Camp was an essential part of my introduction to Palestine back in 2005. I spent a little over two weeks volunteering and spending time with the kids of the camp. I returned to volunteer again in the summer of 2008. Now, five years since my first visit, I still recognize many of the children that have unknowingly played a significant role in my life, not as a photographer, but as a human being. And for that, I will be eternally grateful to them.

Being a freelance photographer gives me a degree of freedom that might not otherwise be possible. However, that also means that I am often forced to finance my own projects. If you enjoy my work, please consider making a donation.

Every Friday, Palestinians from the village of Ni’lin organize protests against the Israeli “security/separation” barrier being built through the village. Recently, these protests have turned more violent. Israel has, for example, declared Ni’lin a closed military zone on Fridays. This means that, unless you live in Ni’lin, you’re not even allowed to enter the village due to a makeshift checkpoint on the road to the village. This has greatly reduced the available press or even international observer presence at the protests.

We, however, managed to get into the village by exiting our taxi about 1km from the village entering on foot via an alternate route.

The protest followed a similar pattern as Bil’in the week before. The protesters marched toward the wall, chanting and waving flags. Soon thereafter, they lit a pile of tires on fire in front of the gate on the wall and the Israeli army opened up with a barrage of tear gas and concussion grenades. The first volley of tear gas, I should note, was actually fired at close range and aimed directly at the protesters instead of up in the air. Fortunately, none of the high-speed canisters hit anyone. For the next hour or two, the protesters would throw stones at the soldiers over the wall and the army would respond with tear gas. Back and forth in fits and spurts.

Finally, however, the Israeli army opened the gate on the wall and began chasing the protesters through the fields and groves of olive trees. There were a few live rounds fired but, as far as I could tell, no one was hit. The IDF ultimately arrested one protester before withdrawing back behind the wall.

I’ve uploaded a few photos below…

For those unfamiliar with the logos and paraphernalia of the various groups in Palestine, the child on the right (above) is wearing a Hamas hat. I thought it provided an interesting contrast to his Spiderman sweatshirt.

Being a freelance photographer gives me a degree of freedom that might not otherwise be possible. However, that also means that I am often forced to finance my own projects. If you enjoy my work, please consider making a donation.

For a slight change of pace from the normal news coming out of the West Bank, I decided to provide a glimpse into, what has turned out to be, a thriving women’s soccer movement in Palestine.

Last Thursday, I had the opportunity to meet up with the Diyar Women’s Soccer Team in Ramallah as they were preparing to play against Syrieh Ramallah. I was invited to photograph the event by Diyar captain Honey Thaljieh, a member of the Palestinian Women’s National team.

The house was packed as many of the fans seemed to be supporting Diyar despite the venue being in Syrieh Ramallah’s backyard. Unfortunately, however, Diyar lost the match by the score 2-1.

Given that the match was indoors and many of the overhead lights weren’t working, the lighting was a little tricky, especially for the fast-paced action on the floor. Fortunately, I managed to grab a few shots. I’ve included just a small sample of photos from the event below.

Being a freelance photographer gives me a degree of freedom that might not otherwise be possible. However, that also means that I am often forced to finance my own projects. If you enjoy my work, please consider making a donation.

Today, I traveled to the Palestinian village of Bil’in outside of Ramallah to photograph the weekly demonstrations against the construction of Israel’s “security/separation” barrier.

The march began shortly after the Friday prayers. Palestinians from the village marched, accompanied by a few international demonstrators, through the village and up to the fenceline where the Israeli army was waiting. The demonstrators began planting an olive tree at the fence while chanting and waving flags. Shortly after the tree had been planted, tear gas and concussion grenades were being launched by the Israeli army in an effort to disperse the protesters. Many of the protesters retreated but many younger kids fled into the surrounding trees where they began throwing stones and rocks at the soldiers.

After about 10-20 minutes, the Israeli army crossed the fenceline and began pursuing the demonstrators and stone-throwers. At the same time, another small army patrol had flanked the demonstration and came out behind the demonstration. With the bulk of the demonstrators retreating to the village, the army spent most of its time pursuing the stone-throwers through the surrounding fields.

The whole scene was fairly chaotic. In addition to trying to photograph the soldiers and stone-throwers at two different locations, I was also paying attention to the incoming tear gas canisters from the army and the incoming stones from the stone-throwers since I was wearing neither a gas mask or a helmet.

I’ve included a few photos from the demonstration and ensuing chaos below. I’ve also included a few videos that were shot by a local friend of mine. The videos are fairly short given the fast-paced situation but, hopefully, it will give you a feel of how Fridays go in Bil’in.

In the video below, you will be able to see the planting of the olive tree near the fenceline. I’m in the video briefly…

The video below was taken near the rear of the demonstration. At the time I was either up front or navigating the trees photographing the stone-throwers. You will hear, however, the crack of the tear gas and the whistle as they fly close overhead.

Being a freelance photographer gives me a degree of freedom that might not otherwise be possible. However, that also means that I am often forced to finance my own projects. If you enjoy my work, please consider making a donation.

Before Friday’s demonstration in al Ma’asara, I spent some time hanging out with a few of the children playing outside. Once the children get over their initial shyness, you won’t be able to walk away from them without taking each child’s photo at least 50 times. It’s madness!

Anyway, here are just a few…

Being a freelance photographer gives me a degree of freedom that might not otherwise be possible. However, that also means that I am often forced to finance my own projects. If you enjoy my work, please consider making a donation.

Yesterday, I traveled to the Palestinian village of al Ma’asara, south of Bethlehem. For months now, Israeli peace activists and international activists have been meeting up with local Palestinians to protest the construction of Israeli settlements in the area and the proposed route of Israel’s “security/separation” wall, both of which, they say, are being built on the village’s land.

The march of approximately 50-60 activists and locals made its way through the village but stopped at a small makeshift roadblock set up by the Israeli army. The road, however, is not normally closed but the soldiers, who have grown accustomed to the weekly demonstrations, put up the roadblock to prevent the march from reaching the proposed route of the wall.

When the demonstrators reached the roadblock, they stopped and began chanting “1-2-3-4, occupation no more… 5-6-7-8, Israel a (sic) fascist state”. The soldiers, about 20-30 visible (I noticed later that another 10-20 soldiers were hidden in surrounding buildings and on rooftops), simply stood behind the roadblock without a sound and looked on.

The entire demonstration at the road block lasted less than 30 minutes and ended without incident. After some closing comments from the organizers of the march, everyone slowly dispersed and the roadblock was removed from the road.

Until next Friday anyway.

Being a freelance photographer gives me a degree of freedom that might not otherwise be possible. However, that also means that I am often forced to finance my own projects. If you enjoy my work, please consider making a donation.

Today, I spent a fair amount of time shadowing the Israeli army today as it went on patrols throughout the Old City of Hebron. I wasn’t invited, of course. I simply would follow them, take photos, and, perhaps, strike up a conversation as they were making their rounds. To be clear, my intent is not to interfere. I am there merely to observe. The army is free to stop, search, and detain anyone in the Old City. According to local Palestinians and CPT members, the army tends to be slightly rougher with the locals and they also tend to search and detain without reason more often when internationals are not observing.

I saw this first-hand tonight as I was waiting to meet up with some CPT members in the Old City. An army patrol passed by us and continued up the street. When they were about 50 meters away, I could see that they stopped and had set up a small perimeter, which is common practice when they stop and question someone. I quickly walked up to the area and caught up with them and saw that they had stopped a young man and had him standing against the wall. As I approached, the soldier began telling him to remove his shirt and shoes. As I walked around the corner and got close, I began taking photos. After the soldier noticed my presence, he told the young man to continue on his way. Shortly thereafter, the patrol also continued on its way back to the entrance to their base.

I followed them back to the entrance of the army base and eventually struck up a conversation with a couple of the soldiers. I had asked them why they stopped that young man. They simply responded that they can stop anyone that they want. I asked “Was there a specific reason he was stopped? Did he have something? Was he a militant?” The answer was “No.” I continued, asking why they do patrols at all. They explained that they do patrols for “protection”. I asked “Protection of who? There are only Palestinians living here. Are you protecting the Palestinians?” No answer. I asked if they were protecting the settlers. “Yes. The settlers.” I asked them, “Don’t you think it’s a little silly to have all you guys here for only 500 people?” No answer. A couple shrugs.

To be fair, all of the soldiers I spoke to seemed to be fairly responsive and pleasant. I got the sense that they were somewhat happy to hear a friendly voice, even if it was asking them pointed questions. For the most part, they’re kids serving their compulsory military service and following orders. I get the impression that not many of them really want to be in Hebron. Many mentioned that were looking forward to getting out of the army altogether.

I’ve included a few more photos from today below…

The gentleman in the next two photos was stopped and questioned because his son was holding a toy gun. I said to the soldiers “It’s a toy. Why would you stop him?” The soldier I was speaking to said that sometimes they put bullets in toy guns. “But even if that were true, they can’t fire bullets, right? It’s a toy.” No response.

Being a freelance photographer gives me a degree of freedom that might not otherwise be possible. However, that also means that I am often forced to finance my own projects. If you enjoy my work, please consider making a donation.

As I mentioned in a previous post, Hebron is a fascinating microcosm of the Israel/Palestine conflict. One obvious example is the case of Shuhada Street.

The city of Hebron is divided into two primary zones: H1 and H2. H1 is primarily under the administration of the Palestinian Authority, though the Israeli army reserves the right to enter at any time without opposition. H2 is under the jurisdiction of the Israeli military. H2 is also where a number of Israeli settlements are located. You can see in the map below that the Old City of Hebron, almost entirely Palestinian, is located within H2. I am also currently staying in the Old City. Since it is part of H2, you will come across roaming Israeli army patrols and Israeli checkpoints and watch/sniper towers while walking through the streets.

Click for a larger version…

In the map above, to the left and slightly below the Old City, you will see Al-Shuhada Street. Al-Shuhada Street is strictly off-limits to local Palestinians. For example, today, I was planning on walking down Shuhada Street but my fellow Palestinian photographer was unable to accompany me and went back to our guest house.

Below you will see a photo of Shuhada Street taken from the roof of the CPT house in the Old City.

To give you an example of how strict the travel restrictions for Palestinians using Shuhada Street are, let me give you an example. Let’s say that I am standing with my Palestinian friend at the location above. If we both want to visit the Muslim cemetery, I, being an American (or more importantly, not a Palestinian), can just cross the street. He, on the other hand, has a much longer trip ahead of him. If wants to walk, he will have to walk about 1.5km and enter the cemetery from H1. If he wants to drive to the cemetery, the trip is approximately 12km.

Let me illustrate this even further. Along Shuhada Street, there are many Palestinian homes. Their front doors are located on Shuhada Street. Unfortunately, since Palestinians cannot use this road, they cannot use the front doors of their home. Instead they have to enter from behind in the Old City. The stairs on the roof below are used by a Palestinian family to enter their second or third floor home because they are not allowed to use the front door.

From inside the Old City, Israel has constructed large barricades blocking any access to Shuhada Street or any other areas that are used by Israeli settlers. Below is a photo of one such barricade:

Israeli settlers are subject to no such restrictions.

Some background
Israel occupied the West Bank after the 1967 Six Day war. Under the Fourth Geneva Convention, it is illegal for an occupying power to resettle its civilian population to occupied land. Imagine the US government offering housing and tax incentives for Americans to move to Baghdad in order to make it a permanent part of the United States. That is precisely what Israel has done. To put it into numbers, there are only about 400-500 Israeli settlers in Hebron, all protected by the Israeli army, while there are approximately 166,000 Palestinians.

Being a freelance photographer gives me a degree of freedom that might not otherwise be possible. However, that also means that I am often forced to finance my own projects. If you enjoy my work, please consider making a donation.

For two days now, French citizens from the Gaza Freedom March have been camped outside the French embassy demanding that their country exert pressure on Egypt to allow their march to enter the Gaza Strip.

The protesters have been surrounded by approximately 200-300 Egyptian police. However, it appears that people have been allowed to come and go as they please. It appears that the Egyptian police are present to conceal the demonstrators from the passing traffic and to keep the demonstration in one place.

The Gaza Freedom March is made up of approximately 1300 people from around the world who gathered in Cairo last week in an effort to enter the Gaza Strip. After arriving, the Egyptian government reversed their previous position and denied entry to all members of the Gaza Freedom March.

Click on each image for a larger version…

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Members of the Gaza Freedom March gathered in front of the Journalists’ Syndicate building in downtown Cairo today to protest the Egyptian government’s decision to deny them entry to the Gaza Strip. Demonstrators waved signs and chanted “Free Free Palestine” while Egyptian security in riot gear looked on. The focal point of the demonstration were a few hunger strikers led by 85 year old Holocaust survivor Hedy Epstein.

The Gaza Freedom March is an international delegation consisting of over 1300 people who arrived in Cairo last week in an effort to travel to the Gaza Strip. While in Gaza, they planned to deliver humanitarian supplies and protest the continued sanctions against the Hamas-run coastal territory.

Here are just a few photos from the demonstration…

Click each image for a larger size…